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Remember to ‘prune after bloom’ for an even better flowering next year!
There are different pruning strategies for different times of the year, but overall, the goals are the same—to keep the plants looking fresh and open, promote new growth and re-flowering, and to improve the overall health of the plant. And as a reminder, pruning to remove diseased, dead or damaged branches can be done at any time of year.
Deadheading is one of the easiest forms of pruning—as blooms fade, just cut off the flower stems below the spent blossoms and above the first set of full, healthy leaves.
Prune shrubs right after they finish blooming, so they’ll have the longest possible growing period to form flower buds for next year. (Next year’s flowers usually set a few weeks after flowering.)
These include shrubs that flower in spring such as forsythias, azaleas, and lilacs or late-season shrubs that flower on buds set during fall of the previous year, including hydrangeas and rhododendrons.
Many perennials such as daylilies and irises and all the spring bulbs are “determinate” plants, meaning that they bloom for a set period each season. Deadheading won’t prolong their flowering, but it will prevent the plants from depleting their stored energy to produce seeds that you do not want. This energy conservation greatly improves the plant’s chance of surviving the winter and also enhances the quality of the next year’s floral display.
Many determinate perennials such as daylilies and bearded and Siberian irises end their period of bloom by producing prominent seed pods. As soon as the petals fall, use your thumb and forefinger to snap each pod off the flower stem. Because the various flowers on a stem open sequentially, this deadheading may continue over a period of days or weeks. When you've removed all the flowers on a stem, use a bypass pruner to cut the stem near its base.
To deadhead most annuals, catch the stem between the edge of your thumbnail and the tip of your forefinger, and gently apply pressure until you've nipped off the spent flower. The goal is a clean separation- torn or ragged edges can encourage disease.
When a flower's color fades and its petals droop, snip it off with a sharp pair of floral shears or bypass pruners. Cut 1 inch below the flower's base. Not all bulbs require deadheading, however: The smaller ones, such as crocus, scilla, and Narcissus bulbocodium, will reflower successfully even when left to their own devices.
Deadheading roses:
For once-blooming roses, the wild-type species roses, and old garden roses that bloom just once each growing season, removing spent flowers is a matter of neatness.
For reblooming modern roses, such as floribundas and hybrid teas, it's crucial to prolonging their display.
With bypass pruners, cut back to a point on the stem just above a leaf with five leaflets-this promotes strong re- growth and helps ensure that the next flower will be of good size.
A note for northern gardeners: Stop deadheading in late summer, as setting seed encourages the bush to go dormant and enhances its cold tolerance.
When the blooms have faded, leaving plants looking like this—it’s a clear sign it is time to “prune after bloom”.
And when pruning, always cut at a 45-degree angle to help water from sprinklers or rain to run off of the shoot and avoid bacteria or fungi from growing.