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ASK MARTHA: Summer and Fall Planting

The “second season” planting guide

Question: Hi Martha, my garden was really great this summer, but it’s now starting to fade. How can I fill it in for the rest of the season?

Martha: A good lesson I have learned is that spring planting is just the beginning: summer and fall—and, in the subtropical south, winter—are planting seasons, too. If you don’t take advantage of these multi-seasonal opportunities for direct sowing, you are missing half, or more, of the rewards your garden has to offer. 

Clockwise from top left: onion, larkspur, cabbage, tomato, poppy, lettuce, globe amaranth, pea, marigold, carrot.

PREPARE YOUR SOIL

After the spring and early summer growing seasons, your soil will need a refresh to replenish its nutrients. Dig into the beds to turn the soil and mix in 3-inches of fresh soil and amend with either a granular or liquid fertilizer. Water thoroughly. The late summer months can be very hot and drying; added mulch is a good protection against the harsh temperatures. A good regime is using Miracle-Gro Organic™ Raised Bed & Garden Soil and waiting a month before applying our Miracle-Gro® Shake 'n Feed® Extended Boost.


THE SECOND SEASON: SUMMER PLANTINGS 

Throughout most of the Northeast and upper Midwest, the second planting season begins with the onset of summer. Hot weather soon puts an end to the cool-weather-loving annuals planted in early spring. Pea vines wither, pansies peter out, and lettuce bolts (produces flowers instead of leafy heads). Fill the spots those plants vacate with late direct sowings of heat-loving annual flowers such as marigolds, zinnias, and cockscomb (Celosia cristata), or with transplants of the tropical annuals: coleus, impatiens, and begonia.

Also, in those regions, the heat-loving vegetable seedlings started indoors—peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants, for example—should move out into the garden, tucked in with direct sowings of other heat-loving or heat-tolerant vegetables such as bush beans, the faster-maturing kinds of summer squashes, New Zealand spinach, and a last sowing of spring crops such as Swiss chard, beets, carrots, or corn.

Early summer is also the planting season for heat-loving vegetables in the coastal regions of southern California, where summers are sunny but not torrid. 

Gardeners in the cloudy, cool Pacific Northwest can sow summer vegetables and annual flowers then, or start a second generation of the cool-season crops, such as lettuces and snapdragons, that are traditional spring crops elsewhere.

The garden lies dormant throughout the summer in much of the Southeast and the desert Southwest, so autumn is the second planting season there. When the mercury starts to descend in September is the best time to sow cool-weather vegetable crops such as lettuce, spinach, cabbage, mustard greens, broccoli, or turnips and some cool-weather annuals such as calendula (pot marigold). Those plants will all flourish during the long interval before the southern winter arrives.

Gardeners in the milder regions of the northern states, the mid-Atlantic region, and the mountain South can carry out a similar second direct sowing, although they must pay closer attention to their scheduling. It’s essential to check that enough days remain before the first autumn frost for newly planted seeds to mature and produce a crop. This is easy to do. Check the “days to harvest” listed on the seed packet or seedling labels.


THE THIRD GROWING SEASON

In much of the Deep South and in the milder regions of the Southwest, there is a third planting season, in some respects the best of all. This is mid-to-late fall, and it is the ideal time for planting frost-tolerant annual vegetables and flowers such as winter lettuces, radicchio, peas, and cabbage, pansies, calendula, and sweet peas. In a mild year, the fall-sown vegetables will begin to provide cuttings and pickings, and the flowers bloom, by midwinter. If the winter weather is relatively severe, the maturity of these plants may be delayed, but they will still supply the very earliest of early spring harvests and a welcome splash of color.


CHECK THE ZONE MAP: As a guide to which plants can be grown successfully in a particular region, and when to direct sow their seeds, gardeners often refer to the United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zone Map (recently updated in 2023).

MARTHA’S GUIDE TO SECOND SOWINGS:

Our list is divided by season: summer, fall, and winter. Within each season, you’ll find recommendations for vegetables and flowers that may be planted then. Because schedules vary with climate, we include information for five regions: 

Region A: Northeast and mid-Atlantic, upper Midwest, and Rocky Mountain West 

Region B: Pacific Northwest 

Region C: Southern California, Southwest 

Region D: Mountain South (North Carolina, Tennessee, Virginia, West Virginia, Kentucky)

Region E: Deep South and Hawaii 

Happy Gro-wing ! 

Early-Mid Summer Sowings

BUSH BEAN

Sow in Region A: June–July; B: June–July; C: July–August; D: July

Black-eyed peas and crowder peas are good summer beans for the Southeast


CARROT

Sow in Region A: June–July; B: June–August; C: June–August; D: June–August

Short-rooted cultivars such as ‘Thumbelina’ are faster maturing and better in the North


COCKSCOMB

Sow in Region A: June; B: June; C: May–July; D: June; E: May–July

In hot summer areas, start later sowings indoors in peat pots and transplant out as weather cools


CORN

Sow in Region A: May-June; C: April–July; D: June–July; E: May-June

Early summer sowings of sweet corn are not advised north of zone 5


CUCUMBER

Sow in Region A: June; B: June–July; D: June

Cucumbers need warm weather to germinate, but do not flourish when summer temperatures rise into the 90s


GLOBE AMARANTH

Sow in Region A: June; B: May–June; C: April–July; D: June; E: May–July

In hot summer areas, start later sowings indoors in peat pots and transplant out as weather cools


LOVE-LIES- BLEEDING

Sow in Region A: June; B: June; C: May–July; D: June; E: May–June

In hot summer areas, start later sowings indoors in peat pots and transplant out as weather cools


MARIGOLD

Sow in Region A: June; B: June; C: May–July; D: June; E: May–July

In hot summer areas, start later sowings indoors in peat pots and transplant out as weather cools


ONION

Sow in Region B: June–August

Plant “long day” cultivars, which don’t start making bulbs until each day’s hours of light reach 14 to 16. “Short day” cultivars will turn to bulb production while plants are still too small


SWISS CHARD AND BEET

Sow in Region B: June–August

Late sowings escape spinach-leaf-miners, which commonly attack spring sowings


TOMATO

Sow in Region C: June; E: June–July

Start seeds indoors and use seedlings to replace heat-killed plants after midsummer; cold-tolerant cultivars such as ‘Stupice’ are best in the Southeast


ZINNIA

Sow in Region A: June; B: June; C: May–July; D: June; E: May–July

In hot summer areas, start later sowings indoors in peat pots and transplant out as weather cools

Late Summer-Early Fall Sowings

BUSH BEAN

Sow in Region C: August-September; E: August-September

Snap beans are more tender and less stringy if grown as fall crop in the South


CABBAGE (and other brassicas such as collards, kale, and turnip)

Sow in Region A: July-August; B: August; C: August-October; D: July-August; E: September-October

In regions A, B, and D, check days to maturity on seed packets and schedule sowings so that the harvest comes around or before the first fall frost


CALENDULA

Sow in Region A: August; B: July-August; C: July; D: August; E: August-October

Direct sow into the garden for fall color


CARROT

Sow in Region B: August; C: August-October; D: August; E: September-October

Check days to maturity on seed packets and schedule sowings so that the harvest comes around or before the first fall frost


CUCUMBER

Sow in Region C: August-September; E: August-September

Soak seeds overnight before planting and cover sowings with scrap lumber until germination begins


LETTUCE AND SPINACH

Sow in Region A: August; B: August-September; C: August-October; D: August-September; E: September-October

In the North sow cold-hardy lettuce culti- vars such as ‘Arctic King,’ ‘Winter Marvel,’ and ‘Rouge d’Hiver’


ONION

Sow in Region A: August; C: September; D: August-September; E: August-October

Sow short-day cultivars such as ‘Texas Early Grano 502’ in the South; hardy bunching onions where winters are severe


PANSY (and other hardy biennials such as hollyhock, sweet William, and Canterbury bells)

Sow in Region A: July–mid-August; B: July–mid-August; C: July – mid-August; D: July–mid-August; E: August-September

Direct sow into a nursery bed and blanket with evergreen boughs over the winter; transplant to the garden in early spring


PEA

Sow in Region A: July; B: July; C: August-September; D: July

Bush peas are the easiest to cover, for protection from early frost


RADICCHIO

Sow in Region A: July-August; B: June-July; C: August-October; D: July-September; E: October

‘Augusto,’ ‘Giulio,’ and ‘Early Treviso’ are easy-to-grow cultivars


RADISH (spring and winter types)

Sow in Region A: August-October; B: August-October; C: September-October; D: September- October; E: October

In the North, mulch winter radishes with straw after the first frost; roots will sweeten and continue to gain bulk into winter


SNAPDRAGON

Sow in Region A: July; B: July-August; D: August-September; E: August-October

Start summer sowings indoors or in a shaded nursery bed, and transplant seedlings to garden


Late Fall-Early Winter Sowings

ALYSSUM

Sow in Region C: October-November; E: October

One of many cool season annual flowers that may be sown now


ANNUAL PHLOX

Sow in Region C: October-November; E: October

Planted now, this annual provides earliest spring bloom


BACHELOR’S BUTTON

Sow in Region C: October-November; E: October

In mildest climates, provides winter color; elsewhere in South, blooms in early spring


CARROT

Sow in Region C: October-December; E: October-December

Cover with straw mulch if frost threatens


COLLARDS, KALE, TURNIP

Sow in Region C: October-November; E: October-November

Winter harvests have the sweetest flavor


LARKSPUR (annual)

Sow in Region C: October-November; E: October-December

Make sowings into early December in the Southeast


LETTUCE AND SPINACH

Sow in Region C: October-December; E: October-December

In zone 7, grow in a cold frame


PEA

Sow in Region E: November-December

The latest plantings may be made in Florida


POPPY

Sow in Region C: October-November; E: October-December

Direct sow: poppies do not tolerate transplanting


RADICCHIO

Sow in Region C: October-December; E: October-December

In southern climates, radicchio grows best in the long, cool season of late fall and winter


RADISH

Sow in Region C: October-December; D: October; E: October-December

Sow winter radishes such as ‘Black Spanish’ or ‘Chinese Rose’ 90 days before fall frost; sow spring radishes (‘Cherry Belle,’ ‘Easter Egg’) until 30 days before frost


STOCK

Sow in Region C: October-November; E: October

Not winter-hardy in the coolest zones


Article by Martha Stewart, as part of the Growing with Martha Stewart partnership.