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The “second season” planting guide
Question: Hi Martha, my garden was really great this summer, but it’s now starting to fade. How can I fill it in for the rest of the season?
Martha: A good lesson I have learned is that spring planting is just the beginning: summer and fall—and, in the subtropical south, winter—are planting seasons, too. If you don’t take advantage of these multi-seasonal opportunities for direct sowing, you are missing half, or more, of the rewards your garden has to offer.
Clockwise from top left: onion, larkspur, cabbage, tomato, poppy, lettuce, globe amaranth, pea, marigold, carrot.
After the spring and early summer growing seasons, your soil will need a refresh to replenish its nutrients. Dig into the beds to turn the soil and mix in 3-inches of fresh soil and amend with either a granular or liquid fertilizer. Water thoroughly. The late summer months can be very hot and drying; added mulch is a good protection against the harsh temperatures. A good regime is using Miracle-Gro Organic™ Raised Bed & Garden Soil and waiting a month before applying our Miracle-Gro® Shake 'n Feed® Extended Boost.
Throughout most of the Northeast and upper Midwest, the second planting season begins with the onset of summer. Hot weather soon puts an end to the cool-weather-loving annuals planted in early spring. Pea vines wither, pansies peter out, and lettuce bolts (produces flowers instead of leafy heads). Fill the spots those plants vacate with late direct sowings of heat-loving annual flowers such as marigolds, zinnias, and cockscomb (Celosia cristata), or with transplants of the tropical annuals: coleus, impatiens, and begonia.
Also, in those regions, the heat-loving vegetable seedlings started indoors—peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants, for example—should move out into the garden, tucked in with direct sowings of other heat-loving or heat-tolerant vegetables such as bush beans, the faster-maturing kinds of summer squashes, New Zealand spinach, and a last sowing of spring crops such as Swiss chard, beets, carrots, or corn.
Early summer is also the planting season for heat-loving vegetables in the coastal regions of southern California, where summers are sunny but not torrid.
Gardeners in the cloudy, cool Pacific Northwest can sow summer vegetables and annual flowers then, or start a second generation of the cool-season crops, such as lettuces and snapdragons, that are traditional spring crops elsewhere.
The garden lies dormant throughout the summer in much of the Southeast and the desert Southwest, so autumn is the second planting season there. When the mercury starts to descend in September is the best time to sow cool-weather vegetable crops such as lettuce, spinach, cabbage, mustard greens, broccoli, or turnips and some cool-weather annuals such as calendula (pot marigold). Those plants will all flourish during the long interval before the southern winter arrives.
Gardeners in the milder regions of the northern states, the mid-Atlantic region, and the mountain South can carry out a similar second direct sowing, although they must pay closer attention to their scheduling. It’s essential to check that enough days remain before the first autumn frost for newly planted seeds to mature and produce a crop. This is easy to do. Check the “days to harvest” listed on the seed packet or seedling labels.
In much of the Deep South and in the milder regions of the Southwest, there is a third planting season, in some respects the best of all. This is mid-to-late fall, and it is the ideal time for planting frost-tolerant annual vegetables and flowers such as winter lettuces, radicchio, peas, and cabbage, pansies, calendula, and sweet peas. In a mild year, the fall-sown vegetables will begin to provide cuttings and pickings, and the flowers bloom, by midwinter. If the winter weather is relatively severe, the maturity of these plants may be delayed, but they will still supply the very earliest of early spring harvests and a welcome splash of color.
CHECK THE ZONE MAP: As a guide to which plants can be grown successfully in a particular region, and when to direct sow their seeds, gardeners often refer to the United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zone Map (recently updated in 2023).
Our list is divided by season: summer, fall, and winter. Within each season, you’ll find recommendations for vegetables and flowers that may be planted then. Because schedules vary with climate, we include information for five regions:
Region A: Northeast and mid-Atlantic, upper Midwest, and Rocky Mountain West
Region B: Pacific Northwest
Region C: Southern California, Southwest
Region D: Mountain South (North Carolina, Tennessee, Virginia, West Virginia, Kentucky)
Region E: Deep South and Hawaii
Happy Gro-wing !
Early-Mid Summer Sowings
BUSH BEAN
Sow in Region A: June–July; B: June–July; C: July–August; D: July
Black-eyed peas and crowder peas are good summer beans for the Southeast
CARROT
Sow in Region A: June–July; B: June–August; C: June–August; D: June–August
Short-rooted cultivars such as ‘Thumbelina’ are faster maturing and better in the North
COCKSCOMB
Sow in Region A: June; B: June; C: May–July; D: June; E: May–July
In hot summer areas, start later sowings indoors in peat pots and transplant out as weather cools
CORN
Sow in Region A: May-June; C: April–July; D: June–July; E: May-June
Early summer sowings of sweet corn are not advised north of zone 5
CUCUMBER
Sow in Region A: June; B: June–July; D: June
Cucumbers need warm weather to germinate, but do not flourish when summer temperatures rise into the 90s
GLOBE AMARANTH
Sow in Region A: June; B: May–June; C: April–July; D: June; E: May–July
In hot summer areas, start later sowings indoors in peat pots and transplant out as weather cools
LOVE-LIES- BLEEDING
Sow in Region A: June; B: June; C: May–July; D: June; E: May–June
In hot summer areas, start later sowings indoors in peat pots and transplant out as weather cools
MARIGOLD
Sow in Region A: June; B: June; C: May–July; D: June; E: May–July
In hot summer areas, start later sowings indoors in peat pots and transplant out as weather cools
ONION
Sow in Region B: June–August
Plant “long day” cultivars, which don’t start making bulbs until each day’s hours of light reach 14 to 16. “Short day” cultivars will turn to bulb production while plants are still too small
SWISS CHARD AND BEET
Sow in Region B: June–August
Late sowings escape spinach-leaf-miners, which commonly attack spring sowings
TOMATO
Sow in Region C: June; E: June–July
Start seeds indoors and use seedlings to replace heat-killed plants after midsummer; cold-tolerant cultivars such as ‘Stupice’ are best in the Southeast
ZINNIA
Sow in Region A: June; B: June; C: May–July; D: June; E: May–July
In hot summer areas, start later sowings indoors in peat pots and transplant out as weather cools
Late Summer-Early Fall Sowings
BUSH BEAN
Sow in Region C: August-September; E: August-September
Snap beans are more tender and less stringy if grown as fall crop in the South
CABBAGE (and other brassicas such as collards, kale, and turnip)
Sow in Region A: July-August; B: August; C: August-October; D: July-August; E: September-October
In regions A, B, and D, check days to maturity on seed packets and schedule sowings so that the harvest comes around or before the first fall frost
CALENDULA
Sow in Region A: August; B: July-August; C: July; D: August; E: August-October
Direct sow into the garden for fall color
CARROT
Sow in Region B: August; C: August-October; D: August; E: September-October
Check days to maturity on seed packets and schedule sowings so that the harvest comes around or before the first fall frost
CUCUMBER
Sow in Region C: August-September; E: August-September
Soak seeds overnight before planting and cover sowings with scrap lumber until germination begins
LETTUCE AND SPINACH
Sow in Region A: August; B: August-September; C: August-October; D: August-September; E: September-October
In the North sow cold-hardy lettuce culti- vars such as ‘Arctic King,’ ‘Winter Marvel,’ and ‘Rouge d’Hiver’
ONION
Sow in Region A: August; C: September; D: August-September; E: August-October
Sow short-day cultivars such as ‘Texas Early Grano 502’ in the South; hardy bunching onions where winters are severe
PANSY (and other hardy biennials such as hollyhock, sweet William, and Canterbury bells)
Sow in Region A: July–mid-August; B: July–mid-August; C: July – mid-August; D: July–mid-August; E: August-September
Direct sow into a nursery bed and blanket with evergreen boughs over the winter; transplant to the garden in early spring
PEA
Sow in Region A: July; B: July; C: August-September; D: July
Bush peas are the easiest to cover, for protection from early frost
RADICCHIO
Sow in Region A: July-August; B: June-July; C: August-October; D: July-September; E: October
‘Augusto,’ ‘Giulio,’ and ‘Early Treviso’ are easy-to-grow cultivars
RADISH (spring and winter types)
Sow in Region A: August-October; B: August-October; C: September-October; D: September- October; E: October
In the North, mulch winter radishes with straw after the first frost; roots will sweeten and continue to gain bulk into winter
SNAPDRAGON
Sow in Region A: July; B: July-August; D: August-September; E: August-October
Start summer sowings indoors or in a shaded nursery bed, and transplant seedlings to garden
Late Fall-Early Winter Sowings
ALYSSUM
Sow in Region C: October-November; E: October
One of many cool season annual flowers that may be sown now
ANNUAL PHLOX
Sow in Region C: October-November; E: October
Planted now, this annual provides earliest spring bloom
BACHELOR’S BUTTON
Sow in Region C: October-November; E: October
In mildest climates, provides winter color; elsewhere in South, blooms in early spring
CARROT
Sow in Region C: October-December; E: October-December
Cover with straw mulch if frost threatens
COLLARDS, KALE, TURNIP
Sow in Region C: October-November; E: October-November
Winter harvests have the sweetest flavor
LARKSPUR (annual)
Sow in Region C: October-November; E: October-December
Make sowings into early December in the Southeast
LETTUCE AND SPINACH
Sow in Region C: October-December; E: October-December
In zone 7, grow in a cold frame
PEA
Sow in Region E: November-December
The latest plantings may be made in Florida
POPPY
Sow in Region C: October-November; E: October-December
Direct sow: poppies do not tolerate transplanting
RADICCHIO
Sow in Region C: October-December; E: October-December
In southern climates, radicchio grows best in the long, cool season of late fall and winter
RADISH
Sow in Region C: October-December; D: October; E: October-December
Sow winter radishes such as ‘Black Spanish’ or ‘Chinese Rose’ 90 days before fall frost; sow spring radishes (‘Cherry Belle,’ ‘Easter Egg’) until 30 days before frost
STOCK
Sow in Region C: October-November; E: October
Not winter-hardy in the coolest zones
Article by Martha Stewart, as part of the Growing with Martha Stewart partnership.